Today I release the custom Marlin build for UP motherboards, that I have been toying with.
I’m switching over to LPCxpresso and Smoothiware, but figured that this might be of use for old Uppers:)
Zip contains a somewhat fresh Marlin codebase, should be easy enough to adjust and expand for the curious.
It’s lacking in comments, search for ”Patrick”;)
Extruding, moving and temps are working, but the Mega cant really run the 1/128 steppers smooth enough, hence why I am moving to Smoothie and LPC1769
Code and pinouts should also be usable on UP Mini and UP2.0
This breaks warranty and I hold NO responsibility over any malfunctions or personal injuries.
I.e. USE AT OWN RISK
Code and schematics are released under CC4.0
Huge thanks to Michael Klokov for initial reverse engineering:)
BLE Dog fence TI CC2540 – Part 2
Well, we are ready for testing….. 🙂
Sugru for rugged ”weather proof” case….
The BLE Fob will sound when ever the connection to phone drops, some adjustments left there, but good enough to start train dog
There will most likely be a part 3, some day;)
Making a BLE Dog Collar – Part 1
The participants for this weekend project:
A dog, who likes rabbits.
A yard without fence
Enter BLE –
TI CC2540 DK http://www.ti.com/tool/cc2540dk-mini
BLE Mini – http://redbearlab.com/blemini/
The plan is to make a Dog Fence FOB that buzz when the dog runs after the oh so funny rabbits:)
So, I ordered a couple of BLE Minis and quickly realised that I didnt want to use an extra MCU attached, I wanted the BLE Mini and a buzzer.
….. MCU 8051…… BLE Stack…. IAR Workbench …. GATTs and GAPS and what not…. ouch
So, also ordered a CC2540 dk, which happened to have a buzzer already attached, happiness and activated a 30 day trial of IAR 8051
Hugely expensive and sadly not usable for 8051 in kickstarter edition:(
Anyways…. lets see if there will be a part 2
Off coding —-
(If success, then I will use the BLE Minis and write a small android dog fence app….. hopefully)
We just got another new toy, more oldschool, will be nice to mix with 3dprinting.
Its a portable furnace from Ali Express, see below for first testdrive:
First, a tiny bit of scrap aluminum
821 deg celsius, we are getting there
Starting to show some nice hot colors
Getting there, actually stopped at 900ish, wasnt sure about fuse in shed;)
Oh so hot now, should ofcourse have waited for full heat, but was eager
And finally, small remelted aluminum piece in all its glory, now, where’s the flask and greensand…
Detta galleri innehåller 7 bilder.
We got our hands on the ”new” and fantastic mold material from our friends at Composimold – PowerMold
So wihout further ado, we decided to cast the Celtic skull in polymer clay
Celtic Skull by artec3d
Prerequsites – Print on your UP 3dprinter, this was printed with 0.20mm / raftless / fast on kapton tape
Step 2 – After pouring mold and appropriate cooling period – push and form clay into mold
We use Fimo clay, easiest to locate here in Sweden
Step 3 – Bake clay for 10-30 min in 110 deg C
Step 4 – Sand with wet sanding and start with 400 up to 2000 grit – add laquer
Step 5 – Paint, we used copper aerosol here, hence laquer had to go on first
Another great 3d printer usage, from plastic to a more natural material, clay in this example.
You could also produce wax models, i.e. for sand casting maybe.
We used our trusty UP Plus for this print, in shell mode and fast 0.20mm thickness